El Jibarito Restaurant
Flamingo show during dinner on Friday 8-9
How to Take on Puerto Rico’s Pork Highway
52 is a toll road
The Pork Highway, or La Ruta del Lechón, is a roughly three-mile stretch of Route 184, which is located in a central area of Puerto Rico
called Guavate. This winding road is lined with more than a dozen casual roadside restaurants, known as lechoneras, specializing in
slow-roasted whole pig (lechón). Each restaurant uses a unique (and usually secret) combination of spices to season the pig, which is
then roasted over an open fire for 6-8 hours.
Aside from the tasty pork itself,
people come to the Pork Highway to experience its buzzing atmosphere, with many
restaurants also
featuring live music and dancing. The road is only about a 45-minute drive from San Juan, yet this mountainous area and its down-to-earth
restaurants feel much farther away from the island’s capital.
The Pork Highway is by no means
undiscovered (Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern have both featured it on their
shows), but it still
attracts a fairly even mix of locals and tourists. It’s an excellent opportunity to explore a less touristy area of the island, as well as sample
traditional Puerto Rican cuisine.
With numerous lechoneras to choose from, which one should you pick? The lechoneras share the same basic set-up, offering cafeteria-style
counters where you point at this dishes you want. You then carry your tray of food to a table. In addition to roast pig, the restaurants also serve
a number of other local dishes like pastelón (a lasagna-like dish made with sweet plantains and meat), tostones (fried plantain slices), rice and
beans, among others. Some places also prepare other meats, like chicken or turkey, in the same spit-roast style used to cook the pork.
It seems like everyone has their personal favorite lechonera. We ate at El Nuevo
Rancho, but Los Pinos and El Mojito are also
popular
choices. The lechoneras are quite spread out along the road, and most people told us to keep driving — even after we thought we had
passed the last restaurant – because the best ones are hidden at the end of the road. There are a few restaurants clustered right at the
beginning of the highway, which are great option if you’re short on time. Pretty much all the lechoneras have their pig displayed in the
window, so it’s easy to tell which places along the road serve lechón.
The Pork Highway is an easy drive from San Juan. You basically just follow Highway 52 south from the city, take exit 32, and then make a
left turn onto Route 184. I think it’s worth renting a car for the trip, because the part of the fun is driving along the road and ogling all the
lechoneras at your own pace; however, a few companies also offer organized tours.
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Points of Interest (Old San Juan)
El Morro (Castillo de San Felipe del Morro)
Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (known locally as simply El Morro) is one of
the most photographed sites in the Caribbean for good reason. A beautiful
16th-century citadel, El Morro has an utterly fascinating history, and the many
tours available will delight you with amazing tales of its construction, its
place in several wars, and its preservation. Located just 1.1 miles/1.8 km from
our hotel, it's one sight you absolutely do not want to miss.
San Cristobal Fortress
Considered the sister fortress of El Morro, the Castillo de San Cristóbal is the
largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World. Upon its completion
in 1783, it covered about 27 acres of land, and entry to the city could be
completely sealed by San Cristóbal's enormous double gates. In 1897, about a
third of the fortification was demolished to help the flow of traffic, but the
majority of this impressive fortress still stands just 0.3 miles or 500 meters
from our hotel.
Plaza de Armas (Arms Square)
When you walk through Plaza de Armas, make sure you look closely at the four
statues flanking the square: all are over 100 years old, and each represents one
of the four seasons. Plaza de Armas was carefully planned to be the main city
square, and as such it is not only a common meeting place but also a frequent
site of music, markets, and festivals.
Plaza Colon (Columbus square)
Originally called St. James Square, this impressive plaza features a grand
staircase and a fountain at the feet of the statue of Christopher Columbus,
after whom the square was renamed in 1893 to honor Christopher Columbus on the
400th anniversary of his landing in Puerto Rico. Be sure to read the bronze
tablets at the pedestal of the Columbus statue, which record important events in
the explorer's life.
Bahia Urbana
Bahia Urbana is one of the best examples of how the old and new come together
with a beautiful result in Old San Juan. This impressive waterfront park and
amphitheatre is home not only to extensive retail opportunities and fine dining,
but also a beautiful park that hosts many musical and theatrical events
year-round. There's always something amazing going on at Bahia Urbana - it's a
good place to go with a spare afternoon!
Del Cristo Chapel
A true Old San Juan landmark, Del Cristo Chapel is a masterpiece of late 1700s
architecture. It anchors the busy Cristo Street and is the site of countless
legends and historic tales. Be sure to see the beautiful Campeche paintings
inside and take a close look at the gold ornamented altar; even when the Chapel
is not open to visitors, both can be viewed from the glass windows.
Plaza San José
Much more intimate than most plazas, Plaza San Jose is located on one of the
highest points of land in Old San Juan. It features the charming cobblestones of
the area leading up to a statue of Juan Ponce de Leon that was cast -
unbelievably - from an English cannon. Stroll on San Sebastian and Calle del
Cristo streets for an array of delightful cafes and restaurants that allow you a
moment to enjoy the local cuisine and the beautiful view.
Plaza del Quinto Centenario (Quincentennial Square)
Commemorating the 500th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of the New World,
this plaza appropriately echoes some elements of Plaza Colon, with a grand
staircase and a truly amazing fountain.
Bacardi Rum Factory
Uncontestably, the Caribbean is the heartland of fine rum,
and the real spirit of Puerto Rico can be found in the casks at the Bacardi Rum
Factory. Enjoy tastings of famous rums, learn about the fascinating history of
the Bacardi Rum Factory, and see the production process firsthand with one of
the daily free tours.
Casa Barcardi is
located 9.8 miles / 15.7 km from Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel; it is easily
accessible by taking a ferry to Catano.
Centro de Bellas Artes
If you love live entertainment, head over to Centro de Bellas Artes for their
concert hall, theatre, and music hall. Home to the Puerto Rico Symphony
Orchestra and hosting the finest entertainers from all over the world, this
central venue is the perfect place to attend a concert, dance or musical theatre
performance, symphony, or even an opera.
Puerto Rico Museum of Art
Featuring the work of notable island artists, the Puerto Rico Museum of Art is a
masterpiece in and of itself. Located in the Santurce neighborhood and built in
the neoclassical style, the museum is over 90 years old and includes 18
permanent galleries, a sculpture garden, and its own theatre. Ask at the
Sheraton front desk about current must-see exhibitions.
Museo de Arte de Ponce
The Museo de Arts de Ponce focuses primarily on European
works from the 14-19th centuries as well as some of the island's most lauded
pieces. It was recently renovated to the tune of $30 million and is home to some
of the finest art you can see anywhere in the Caribbean.
Museum of the Americas
Focusing specifically on the history and culture of America from perspective of
early European settlers in the Caribbean, the Museum of the Americas frequently
hosts local concerts in the open courtyard. On Thursday and Friday evenings, be
sure to head over to this museum for a free 30-minute light show on the side of
the building.
Bakery near San Juan that I saw on Andrew Zimmern show
Plaza del Mercado de Rio Piedras
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Old San Juan Self Guided Walking Tour